Monthly Archives: April 2008

Threading the Needle, and Tired

Unless you just emerged from a bomb shelter to read my blog, you’ve probably heard that American Airlines canceled something like 9 million flights this week. Since my itineraries had me flying to Dallas, Miami and Atlanta on American, you might say that my travels this week were in some jeopardy. Fortunately, the only cancellation I suffered was from Denver to Dallas, and I was footsteps away from the counter when it happened. So I was one of the lucky ones that immediately got an aisle seat on a Frontier flight leaving just one hour later.

My Miami and Atlanta segments were on 757′s, which were unaffected by the FAA inspections. They were also completely, totally full so there was no risk that they’d cancel those flights just to free up equipment. Overall, I’d say that I got pretty lucky.

The airports, however, were absolute pandemonium this week. Miami in particular seemed like a third world country just learning how to operate an airport. There were hundreds and hundreds of people trying to get booked on alternate flights at the counters and people like me just trying to make the flights we were scheduled for by somehow penetrating the crowd. Those rope barriers they use to zig zag lines? In the American section of the terminal they were like crazy quilt random drunken mazes with badly placed signs to tell you where to go in and out. Consequently, a lot of people were simply unhooking them and walking through to the place they needed to get to. It wound up having all of the downsides of the rope maze (frustrating, constrained flow) and all of the downsides of anarchy (angry, chaotic crowds). I don’t know how far away we were from some kind of violence breaking out in the airport, but I’m guessing not much.

Once you got through security and into the gate areas it wasn’t much better. It was literally hard to move in places. And speaking of violence, I saw something on Concourse D near the Admiral’s Club that I’ve never seen before – at least not in the US. Walking toward me through the crowd were two hulking Miami Police officers holding short stock automatic rifles, fingers on the trigger guards. Just behind them was a very petite blonde wearing a pair of those super-sized don’t-take-pictures-of-me-you-scum-paparazzi sunglasses. Behind her was a small entourage of unremarkable looking women.

Who was the blonde? Why did she rate a police escort with nearly shouldered automatic weapons?! Is that how the cops roll in Miami? Surrounded by several hundred people that couldn’t move waiting on their airplanes, what would they actually do with them in the case of an attack?

Anyway, I was glad to get out of there and be on my way to Atlanta. The Greatest Kid in the World and I will be spending a few days together while she starts her Spring Break.

After that, I get to return to Dallas for a whole week!! I’m very excited about that. For the past 30 days I’ve slept in my bed in Dallas only 3 of them. That’s nuts. This is the longest string of travel I’ve had in I can’t remember when. I’m tired, I’ve gained 3 pounds or so, I haven’t been to the gym in weeks and both my house and apartment are a mess. Enough.

How to Totally Blow $165

Two weeks ago as I was leaving for San Francisco on the way to Bangkok I was in a bit of a hurry when going through the Atlanta airport. While struggling with my bags, shoes, coat, the plastic bins for my laptops and the other nonsense at “security” I made a mistake which would come back to me a long while later. Instead of clipping my Atlanta set of car and house keys to the key clip in my briefcase I dropped them into a zip pocket in my carry on luggage. I would sort it out after re-assembling myself on the other side of the metal detectors, x-ray machines and government employees. Only I didn’t.

Last Friday morning while still pretty badly jet lagged I threw together my luggage for the weekend trip to Atlanta and then points beyond this week. In the fog of fatigue I was operating on pure routine, not really thinking ahead. I didn’t need the carry on bag that I took to Asia, only my suit bag and brief case, one which I’d check, the other which I’d carry on.

My keys, of course, are still in Dallas right now, sitting in the little zip pocket of my carry on bag, laughing at me.

So this is what Friday was like:

  1. Discover that my Atlanta keys are NOT in my briefcase while going through “security” at DFW and hooking my Dallas keys onto the key hook.
  2. Mumbling “@#$%” repeatedly and just loud enough for the government employees to give me a good second look.
  3. Catch a cab in Atlanta up to the house. $85 with tip.
  4. MacGyver my way into the house during a break in the POURING rain.
  5. Wait for my daughter to arrive, call another cab, ride down to the airport with her. Another $80 with tip.
  6. Drive back to the house.

Keeping two homes in two cities and traveling like I do it was bound to happen I guess. But I’ve got to get a better Plan B for that situation. Maybe spare sets of keys hidden in my briefcase or something?

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An Amsterdam Afternoon

Getting to central Amsterdam from near the Schipol airport was very easy. I just jumped on a shuttle back to Schipol and bought a day pass on the train for only six Euros and change. Total transit time was maybe 40 minutes.

When I arrived I walked out of the station and crossed the street to come right up on the canal boat tour docks that I was looking for. For another thirteen Euros I had a day pass for the “hop on, hop off” tour via the canals, which was exactly what I was looking for. I was glad to get there quickly. The weather in Amsterdam when I arrived was cool and rainy, with the rain at times coming down pretty hard. I picked up a cheap umbrella right there on the dock for just five Euros and that was all I needed to stay dry while waiting on the boat.

Central Station in Amsterdam

Central Station in Amsterdam

My first stop was the Anne Frank House. A new pen pal of mine in Dallas had recommended that I go there, and honestly had she not I wouldn’t have even thought of it. I’ve heard of Anne Frank of course, but did not remember that her sad story unfolded in Amsterdam. The house is, of course, a global attraction. Even in the rain there was a line wrapped around the block to get in, so I had to wait a while. It was well worth the time and the money to see. The image of Otto Frank standing in the Secret Annex after the war is one of the most haunting images I’ve ever laid eyes on. One of the officers at my company has a print of the photo in his house, which was the first time I ever saw it. The one at the Ann Frank house is a much larger print – nearly life sized.

Waiting at the Anne Frank House

Waiting in the Rain at the Anne Frank House

After that it was lunch time. I walked around the Jordaan neighborhood a bit looking for a cafe to get a sandwich and a Coke. By this time I was very hungry and thirsty. Sitting at a table next to me were four American guys that had the bohemian “we’re touring Europe after grad school” look about them. I didn’t take much notice until one of them pulled out his MacBook. Aha. Two things.

  1. Maybe this dude had similar power supply troubles and could suggest what to do about it now that I was stuck in Holland with no juice for my personal laptop.
  2. It is really striking to me how many Apple users look like the stereotype of Apple users. These guys could have walked right out of an Apple commercial. Hip, sort of rumpled, not clean shaven.

Success. Apple Dude #1 figured that my wall adapter was probably the culprit to my fried power supply and after hearing his explanation I agreed. My adapter did not have a ground plug. The outlet I used in Bangkok did have a ground plug. Made sense. Even better, just a few blocks down the street from where we were there was an Apple reseller where I could get a replacement power supply with a European plug. Awesome. I went there straight after I was done with my sandwich. Tip: if you are traveling outside of the US in a country where Apple had no retail stores, be sure to hit the “reseller” link on their web site. It is very likely to help you find something local in a major city like Amsterdam where Apple has no stores of their own, something I figured out after the fact.

From a canal bridge to Jordaan

From a canal bridge to Jordaan

After picking up my power supply, I wandered around a landmark church near the canal boat dock while I was waiting on the next pickup. It was like a museum inside – perfectly preserved, nice little gift shop for tourists, not actually used anymore.

A Dutch museum to Christianity

A Dutch Museum of Christianity

I found it interesting that on the way in the guide audio on the boat was quick to point out that hardly anyone actually attended church in Holland anymore and that many of the churches were being converted to office buildings. I paid careful attention for the next two days and noted something I had never thought of before. There were ZERO outward indications of religious belief anywhere in Holland. Contrast that with riding around in the US and the many church vans, “What would Jesus do?” bracelets and “In case of Rapture this car will be unmanned” bumper stickers. The cultural difference between Europe and America in that regard is no exaggeration.

Anyway, after killing a little time there it was back to the tour boat and on to the Rijksmuseum. I wanted to go there to see the Rembrandts and Vermeers that they had on display. After all, when would I be likely to see those again? Folks, if you like art or history at all you simply have to go there if you are in Amsterdam. Forget about the fact that it’s under renovation. The thing is so huge that the part that’s not under renovation is still very large and very much worth seeing. Of course they wouldn’t let me take pictures inside, but I’ve copied just two of the paintings from online sources to give you a tiny glimpse of the original works that I got to see.

Rembrandt’s The Night Watch. It covered a huge wall. Enormous painting.

One of the many Vermeer paintings on display

After the tour of the Rijksmuseum the sun came out. Wow. That’s when I got the picture that I posted below. It’s hard to describe how pretty Amsterdam is in the Spring sunshine.

One thing I did not go to see – the Red Light District. When you travel to places like Bangkok, Las Vegas, New York City, Mexico and Shanghai coming into contact with prostitutes is almost unavoidable. If you are out and about you are going to see them. So there was no novelty for me in the idea of seeing what that part of town would be like. And I did not want to watch pretty young women selling themselves to strangers. I have a daughter and it’s hard for me to not think about the fact that those women are somebody’s daughter too, however tragically estranged they might be from their families and even themselves. So I couldn’t tell you what Amsterdam’s famous red light district is like. I did see this somewhat amusing text in my guidebook however:

“Prostitution: If you visit one of the women, we would like to remind you, they are not always women… If you have any problems with a girl or a pimp, do not hesitate to ask a police officer. We know why you are there and you can hardly surprise us.”

Instead of wasting my time there I bought some souvenirs for friends and family and headed back to the central train station. On the ride back I was seated next to Julia, a really nice grad student from Michigan who had just finished her masters degree in Rotterdam and was headed back to the US. We had a nice chat about world travels and said our goodbyes when the train got to Schipol.

Another good day of international travel. Man am I fortunate to get have the job that I have.

It’s a Long Way Down

A couple of days ago I posted on my home-away-from-home in Bangkok, the Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit. It really is nice enough that I actually miss it at times – we’re talking about a hotel!

But I’m especially missing it right now. I don’t know what kind of experience you guys have with European hotels, but I tend to find that in the west they are simultaneously very expensive and not very nice. At sane price points, facilities are generally long overdue for a remodel and the furnishings resemble what you’d find in an American thrift store. Those things are more easily tolerated when service is good, but I also tend to find that lackluster in western European hotels.

Sunday night at the hotel near Schipol airport went off to a rough start. First, when I opened the door to my room a wave of heat rolled out. The radiators were still on even though it was about 50 degrees outside. Then, as I turned on the lights the bed pictured below said more about this hotel with one glance than any amount of abstract articulation could communicate:

bed.jpg

OK. It’s still a bed. Just let me get on the Internet for a few minutes and then I’ll pass out to a dreamless sleep and check out of this place first thing in the morning. My business partners had set me up to spend the next two nights in another place anyway.

Not so fast.

I plugged my outlet adapter into the wall and then my MacBook power supply into the adapter. There was a very clear sizzling sound followed by a hollow plastic “pop!” noise. Houston, we have problem.

So, I pull out my Dell power supply. Now I know that this thing is fine with European power of all kinds because I’ve traveled with it so much. Plug it in, everything is fine. I’m still very pissed because I’ve fried my MacBook power supply and it’s completely out of juice and I don’t want to do work right now – I wanted to do some personal stuff. Like maybe make a bedtime blog post. But anyway, I go through the boot up and plug the Ethernet cable I travel with into the wall and the laptop.

No link.

OK, maybe they gave up on wired networking and use wireless. Aha, yes. But it’s not free. Have to log on and pay. Fine, pull out the AMEX. No, actually they don’t take AMEX. Fine, pull out my MasterCard. But now the web form for entering your credit card number won’t open. Now I want to throw something. Time to take a breather.

So I open the door to the balcony to let the heat out of the room and go find the thermostat. Problem. The thermostat is dead. Completely. No amount of button pressing in any combination will cause it to wake up. Now I’m muttering unprintable things.

I go over to the phone and pick it up, ready to summon the night manager to my room to have him take personal inventory of his broken toys and take some sort of action that might cause me to feel a little better.

The phone is dead.

Now remember – I’ve been awake at this point for over 24 hours. I’ve eaten bad airplane food and sat in a cramped seat while the entire continents of Asia and Europe passed below. I stood in a long line to check in with the 9 million other people on the shuttle bus from the airport. Then I finally get into the room and it’s basically a European Motel 6 with a fancy name and chic looking staff.

I lose it.

Inside my head I am now yelling obscenities so loud and foul that had they actually been out loud I’m sure that someone would have called the Dutch police. If their phone worked that is.

I stormed down to the front desk and I could tell from the looks on the faces of the staff when they saw me coming that I had the expression of a man about to do murder. Everybody backed away from the counter to let the big guy deal with me.

No sir, the thermostats do not turn on until April. Sir, the Internet is working fine sir, perhaps you should try another credit card, or maybe you would like to buy an Internet access card? They are sixteen Euro for 1 day of access or 10 Euro for an hour – when will you be checking out? No sir, I am sorry, I cannot add it to your bill. Perhaps your credit card. Your phone, yes sir I am sorry, you need to make calls? I do not have technician right now, perhaps you would like to move to another room?

No, perhaps I would like to move to another hotel, only I’m so exhausted and dizzy with jet lag that I’d probably wind up face down in a ditch behind a screen of tulips if did anything other than go back to my room and go to sleep.

Four hours later I woke up, my body unable to quickly adjust from Bangkok time.

No sir, I’m sorry, the laundry has already left for the day. No sir, there are no taxis here, only the shuttle back to the airport. No sir, we cannot ship any items back to the US for you. Perhaps you could make arrangements with friends here in Holland?

Let’s just say that I won’t be staying at this hotel again. Ever. Even if it is the last safe place after the apocalypse.

Then my business partner called to discuss logistics for the day and we figured out it would actually be best for me to stay in the hotel for the next night also if I wanted to have any time to go see Amsterdam.

I got the hell out of there to go take a day trip into Amsterdam. My business partners weren’t going to be ready to meet me until Tuesday. Just as well. I needed a few hours alone to get my happy face back after all of that.

I Count 18, PW Says 22

On Sunday I flew Finn Air from Bangkok to Amsterdam by way of a transfer in Helsinki. Sunday was a very long day. It started at about 5:30 am in Bangkok and ended about midnight on the outskirts of Amsterdam. More on that in a minute.

I’ve never been to either Finland or Holland. I don’t count my two hours on the ground in Helsinki as visiting a country, but my three days in Holland would definitely count. PW, as you may recall, insists that contact with the soil of a place adds it to your trophy belt.

By my count, I’m up to 18 countries now. PW would say 22. Either way I count myself lucky to have the opportunities to visit that places that I have seen. Even if some of the travel experiences aren’t always what you would like. Say, for example, my hotel experience on Sunday night.