Tag Archives: art

An Amsterdam Afternoon

Getting to central Amsterdam from near the Schipol airport was very easy. I just jumped on a shuttle back to Schipol and bought a day pass on the train for only six Euros and change. Total transit time was maybe 40 minutes.

When I arrived I walked out of the station and crossed the street to come right up on the canal boat tour docks that I was looking for. For another thirteen Euros I had a day pass for the “hop on, hop off” tour via the canals, which was exactly what I was looking for. I was glad to get there quickly. The weather in Amsterdam when I arrived was cool and rainy, with the rain at times coming down pretty hard. I picked up a cheap umbrella right there on the dock for just five Euros and that was all I needed to stay dry while waiting on the boat.

Central Station in Amsterdam

Central Station in Amsterdam

My first stop was the Anne Frank House. A new pen pal of mine in Dallas had recommended that I go there, and honestly had she not I wouldn’t have even thought of it. I’ve heard of Anne Frank of course, but did not remember that her sad story unfolded in Amsterdam. The house is, of course, a global attraction. Even in the rain there was a line wrapped around the block to get in, so I had to wait a while. It was well worth the time and the money to see. The image of Otto Frank standing in the Secret Annex after the war is one of the most haunting images I’ve ever laid eyes on. One of the officers at my company has a print of the photo in his house, which was the first time I ever saw it. The one at the Ann Frank house is a much larger print – nearly life sized.

Waiting at the Anne Frank House

Waiting in the Rain at the Anne Frank House

After that it was lunch time. I walked around the Jordaan neighborhood a bit looking for a cafe to get a sandwich and a Coke. By this time I was very hungry and thirsty. Sitting at a table next to me were four American guys that had the bohemian “we’re touring Europe after grad school” look about them. I didn’t take much notice until one of them pulled out his MacBook. Aha. Two things.

  1. Maybe this dude had similar power supply troubles and could suggest what to do about it now that I was stuck in Holland with no juice for my personal laptop.
  2. It is really striking to me how many Apple users look like the stereotype of Apple users. These guys could have walked right out of an Apple commercial. Hip, sort of rumpled, not clean shaven.

Success. Apple Dude #1 figured that my wall adapter was probably the culprit to my fried power supply and after hearing his explanation I agreed. My adapter did not have a ground plug. The outlet I used in Bangkok did have a ground plug. Made sense. Even better, just a few blocks down the street from where we were there was an Apple reseller where I could get a replacement power supply with a European plug. Awesome. I went there straight after I was done with my sandwich. Tip: if you are traveling outside of the US in a country where Apple had no retail stores, be sure to hit the “reseller” link on their web site. It is very likely to help you find something local in a major city like Amsterdam where Apple has no stores of their own, something I figured out after the fact.

From a canal bridge to Jordaan

From a canal bridge to Jordaan

After picking up my power supply, I wandered around a landmark church near the canal boat dock while I was waiting on the next pickup. It was like a museum inside – perfectly preserved, nice little gift shop for tourists, not actually used anymore.

A Dutch museum to Christianity

A Dutch Museum of Christianity

I found it interesting that on the way in the guide audio on the boat was quick to point out that hardly anyone actually attended church in Holland anymore and that many of the churches were being converted to office buildings. I paid careful attention for the next two days and noted something I had never thought of before. There were ZERO outward indications of religious belief anywhere in Holland. Contrast that with riding around in the US and the many church vans, “What would Jesus do?” bracelets and “In case of Rapture this car will be unmanned” bumper stickers. The cultural difference between Europe and America in that regard is no exaggeration.

Anyway, after killing a little time there it was back to the tour boat and on to the Rijksmuseum. I wanted to go there to see the Rembrandts and Vermeers that they had on display. After all, when would I be likely to see those again? Folks, if you like art or history at all you simply have to go there if you are in Amsterdam. Forget about the fact that it’s under renovation. The thing is so huge that the part that’s not under renovation is still very large and very much worth seeing. Of course they wouldn’t let me take pictures inside, but I’ve copied just two of the paintings from online sources to give you a tiny glimpse of the original works that I got to see.

Rembrandt’s The Night Watch. It covered a huge wall. Enormous painting.

One of the many Vermeer paintings on display

After the tour of the Rijksmuseum the sun came out. Wow. That’s when I got the picture that I posted below. It’s hard to describe how pretty Amsterdam is in the Spring sunshine.

One thing I did not go to see – the Red Light District. When you travel to places like Bangkok, Las Vegas, New York City, Mexico and Shanghai coming into contact with prostitutes is almost unavoidable. If you are out and about you are going to see them. So there was no novelty for me in the idea of seeing what that part of town would be like. And I did not want to watch pretty young women selling themselves to strangers. I have a daughter and it’s hard for me to not think about the fact that those women are somebody’s daughter too, however tragically estranged they might be from their families and even themselves. So I couldn’t tell you what Amsterdam’s famous red light district is like. I did see this somewhat amusing text in my guidebook however:

“Prostitution: If you visit one of the women, we would like to remind you, they are not always women… If you have any problems with a girl or a pimp, do not hesitate to ask a police officer. We know why you are there and you can hardly surprise us.”

Instead of wasting my time there I bought some souvenirs for friends and family and headed back to the central train station. On the ride back I was seated next to Julia, a really nice grad student from Michigan who had just finished her masters degree in Rotterdam and was headed back to the US. We had a nice chat about world travels and said our goodbyes when the train got to Schipol.

Another good day of international travel. Man am I fortunate to get have the job that I have.

Twelfth Night

Although I’m now back in Dallas I was in Atlanta through Thursday. I worked such long hours that I had no time to post anything until this morning. Despite all that hard work I did have a little time for fun in Atlanta, and that experience was worth a post.

Between midtown and downtown Atlanta there is, of all things, an Elizabethan theater. It is the New American Shakespeare Tavern, which most locals call simply “the Shakespeare Tavern.” I went out on a date there this past Thursday with a woman I first met at Rice a couple of weeks ago. This week’s entertainment was her idea, and it was a great pick. I had checked out a couple of other theater and movie alternatives before getting her suggestions, but this one looked most interesting. It was the perfect night for Shakespeare. Even the weather was in character. Thursday night in Atlanta was fifteenth century England with sky scrapers – very cold and very wet with terrible traffic.

The play for the evening was Twelfth Night, one of Shakespeare’s comedies that I had never seen before. I won’t recount the plot here, but suffice to say with a combination of drunkenness, cross-dressing, gender-confused love triangles, puritanical snobbery and mistaken identity all woven into one plot there was plenty of opportunity for some good laughs. The cast delivered. In particular, Matt Nitchie’s performance of Malvolio was very, very funny. His pattern of speech reminded me a bit of Alan Rickman in some of his better villains-that-you-love-to-hate roles.

12thnight.jpg

Sir Toby, Sir Andrew and the Fool.

As I suppose real Elizabethan Shakespeare comedies at The Globe might have been, there were plenty of other laughs to be had in comedy that was alternately bawdy, smart and physical. Speaking of that, the proprietor of the place has a pretty darned good essay on the subject of “keeping it real” in the performance of Shakespeare here. I wish I could tell you that it’s still showing, but it’s not. Sunday was the last night – for now. Suffice to say that I highly recommend a trip to the Shakespeare Tavern if you enjoy live theater and find yourself in Atlanta. The entertainment is great and the prices are hard to beat. The only qualification I can offer you is that you might want to eat somewhere else if you are finicky about your food. It’s far from terrible but it’s not fine dining.

As for the date, I’ll continue to say little in consideration of her privacy and mine. I will offer that the company was once again very enjoyable and I wish the night out had not seemed so short. With entertainment like this toward the top of her list, she’s got a lot going for her in my book.

Live in Aught Three

In my post on Booked Up in Archer City I mentioned that the store had the feel a grandparent’s house where bits and pieces of the lives of friends and loved ones are scattered around to see. What I failed to mention is that I bought one of those things – a copy of Live in Aught Three by James McMurtry and the Heartless Bastards.

If you have ever found something special in an unusual way or place you’ve probably had the feeling I’ve got about this CD. When I picked it up off the counter at the last second I thought this excellent recording might be as relatively unknown as the place I found it, but I’ve started to think that just can’t be possible. It’s too good not to have a wide following, and it wouldn’t surprise me one bit to find out that I’m just the last guy on earth to hear about it.

Artistry runs in families and so I suppose it should be no surprise that Larry McMurtry’s son James is an artist too, and when listening to his music it makes perfect sense that his dad is a writer. The lyrics are top notch. But so is everything.

As the title tells well enough, these tracks are live recordings. I can’t tell you how good their quality is. For me the purchase of a live CD is very often a let down. I have a hard time getting through the low fidelity and to the music. That is not a problem here – the opposite happens. Listen on a good system and you’d swear the band must be somewhere close to you but out of sight. Close your eyes and you are outside on a fine spring evening with your friends and a bottle of beer. It’s that good.

And then the music itself is just hard to beat. The sound, the story telling, the pace and that exceptional quality of a good compilation that can only occur when everything just goes together – they are all there. As for what kind of music it is exactly I can’t say. I suggest reading the reviews to get the thoughts of someone who actually knows what they are talking about. My taste in music is as haphazard as my taste in every other art form. I can’t tell you what I like as much as I can point to it, and I point to a lot of things that don’t have much in common.

I also make no secret of the fact that I like my entertainment on the intellectually challenging side, and McMurtry is easily up to that. When I listen to tracks like “No More Buffalo”, “Out Here in the Middle” and “Lights of Cheyenne” I swear I can’t tell if he likes living out here in the middle, if he doesn’t or if there would be any place he’d prefer either way. With “60 Acres” and “Choctaw Bingo” you can’t help but think that he views Texas more cynically, but “Rachel’s Song” makes you wonder if he’d ever leave anyway. If this music were wine, it would have such complexity and reputation that it would be available by auction only.

James McMurtry and his accomplished band play down in Austin they say. Maybe I’ll get down there and meet them some time.

mcmurtry2.jpg

Photo by Craig Seth.

[Update - unlike my friend over at the arc of time (who makes full disclosure and also knows something about music) I get nothing if you follow the link above and buy this CD. This is not because I disdain commercialism. Color me capitalist. It's not even because I frown on flogging while blogging. It's simply because I don't know how. Yet.]

Maui Moment

JD Miller at The Reflection Fine Art Gallery here in Uptown did another live painting tonight, this time at the gallery. I wasn’t able to make it there until he was mostly done unfortunately and it was standing room only when I got there. Even so I got to see some of the final touches and I enjoyed watching the audience take it in.

My pictures of the finished work (JD christened it “Maui Moment”) came out badly enough that I don’t want to post it here and leave the viewer with an unworthy impression. Instead, take a look at one of his many 3D oil paintings in the gallery:

img_1204.jpg

Pretty good wouldn’t you say? I’m sure that they’ll post one or more of tonight’s painting at JD’s blog some time soon.

Art galleries can be deathly plain sometimes. Reflection is not. It’s got a great atmosphere, the superb lighting you’d expect in such a place and a nice collection of painting and sculpture to browse. I got a great tour from Courtney, one of the staff members from The Meadows this past Sunday. She was an excellent hostess.

I met JD briefly after the performance and he seems like a nice guy. He’s been operating the gallery for four years and I get the sense that things have really taken off for him over that period. He explained that the very large majority of his work is done in the studio, not in live performances. That said, he does those frequently enough that you should have the opportunity to see one if you keep an eye out. He’ll also be doing one on live TV tomorrow for channel 8.

I hope it goes well for him.

The Meadows

Driving toward home on 183 last week I noticed a billboard for an art exhibit at The Meadows Museum. It was titled “Coming of Age: American Art from 1850 to 1950″. It featured this painting from Winslow Homer on the billboard.

homer_bells-784248.jpg

Since the exhibit only runs through February and I doubted I’d get another chance to go, I went to check it out today. It was pretty good actually, and it was a GREAT day to walk around SMU a little and take it in – something I hadn’t done yet. SMU has a very pretty campus and the weather in Dallas today was just stunning.

Not surprisingly for me, I found that I enjoyed the earlier works much more than the later ones. By the time you get to the 1950′s you are looking at paintings which are very abstract and frankly garish as far as I’m concerned. The works belonging the Hudson River School and the Ashcan School, on the other hand were ones that I really liked. The Hudson River School is apparently what so many of the captivating landscapes of the American west belong to. These are paintings by the likes of Albert Bierstadt and many others of this type:

200611_1a.jpg

I don’t know what snooty art critics might say about this genre, but I love it. I can’t help but imagine what it must have been like to actually be there viewing these scenes with my own eyes – before the west was heavily populated and made into something other than wilderness.

The Ashcan School was apparently very controversial not so much for its composition and technique, but it’s subjects. “Gritty urban life” was not considered worthy of art it seems. This painting of a rough and tough Philadelphia boxing club is an example. I can’t say that I’m generally a big fan of viewing men in underwear, but this was a very striking painting in person.

salutat98.jpg

Again, it put me in the mind of what it must have been like to be there watching a boxing match in 1908.

One of the more interesting things on display was modern in the extreme. As in it was done just today. The Reflection Fine Art Gallery had a live painting in 3D oils done by the man who I believe is their owner. While I can’t say that I that I find the works themselves to my taste, watching the painting as it was being painted was something else all together. That was enjoyable. Here are shots of “before” and “during”.

Update – the artist you see below is in fact JD Miller, owner of the Reflection Fine Art Gallery. JD blogs over at The Reflectionist.

This is “before”. The painting to the left of the blank canvas was to give the audience some idea of what the finished product might look like.

before.jpg

Below was “during”, about 30 minutes into two hours of painting. I had to leave shortly after this, but I might see more of it in the future. A gorgeous woman that works at the gallery suggested that I come by on a Friday night some time to see more work in progress – apparently that’s something they do as part of the gallery’s business. I could think of worse ways to spend an evening.

during.jpg

Watching this painting in progress was transfixing in almost the same way as watching a campfire.

Anyway, it was a good chance to see a neat museum. There were plenty of other things there as well, including some really impressive paintings and sculpture from Medieval Spain. I’m glad I went.

Afterimage

There is a place called The Quadrangle only two blocks from the apartment here in Dallas. Among the many shops there is the Afterimage Gallery. They claim to be the one of the oldest galleries anywhere devoted to photography. For my part I can say that their website does not do them justice. They really do have a nice selection of art quality photographs at prices that range from a few hundred dollars to – hang on – $57,500 for a rare print of the Japanese countryside. You read that correctly. Nice, but I think I’d have to strike a few other things off my list before spending that on a photograph.

On the few hundred dollar end of the spectrum, however, I found that I really liked Sarah Carson’s work from Italy. This one, for example:

Early Morning, Venice

You can check out her complete gallery here.

Also noteworthy was one of the Neil Folberg prints of the Saba Monestary near Nahal Kidron. I can’t find that photo on his website, but there are some interesting things there as well.

Being within walking distance of places like this is one of the things I hoped for when I picked this part of Dallas to live in.